每次到香港，我们必定得走深水埗一趟。深水埗在旺角以北，较少外国和内地游客的喧嚣，多了份香港在地人的味道。二三十年前的深水埗是造就香港成为当时世界成衣王国的一大功臣。想当年，拥有一件 “Made in Hong Kong”的T-桖是极为普遍的事。但随着劳工成本的提高，许多当地商人已经移资到大陆内地去设厂发展。那些之前以成衣公司为主的大夏已经被其他企业所进驻，而以往车衣声此起彼伏的工厂也随着人去楼空沉寂下来。走在长沙湾和荔枝角的街道上瞭望年久失修，残壁斑驳的高楼，这座成衣工业大城昔日的繁华和如今的沧桑形成了强烈的对比。当然，我们来深水埗追寻老香港的足迹，不仅仅是为了这些大楼。更重要的是在深水埗的许多街道上和店铺里尘封了旧时香港的味道。当然，我们说的是美食。像是“合益泰小食”的肠粉和艇仔粥，或是“劉森記”的蝦子竹昇麵，每每吸引着我们造访的应该是隐藏在食物中的那种上一代，再上一代和现在新的一代一起过日子的味道。简单而鲜美，朴实而率真。平民美食，老铺传统继承了华丽外衣下的香港，里头包裹着那一层层的老味道。
While walking through Sham Shui Po during our recent trip to HK, we’d decided to stop for a quick bite at 合益泰小食 which we’d read about. This is a small eatery located very near to Ap Liu Street Market and is well known for the local street food it provides. Food is kept very simple and unpretentious here and it is precisely this that attracts hoards to this place, especially the lunch and dinner peak crowds. Lucky for us, it was just after the lunchtime rush hour, so no queues. But as with most local Hong Kong eating places, sharing tables is something which one should almost expect. When in Rome do what the Romans do…
劉森記麵家 Lau Sum Kee Noodle Shop is an old icon of Sham Shui Po Hong Kong, an area which is well-known as a wholesale centre for clothing and apparel. Throughout the years of annual visits to Hong Kong, it has become a favorite which we visit for a quick fix whenever we are in the area. Wantan dumpling noodle shops are found all over Hong Kong in practically every street corner but what distinguishes Lam Sum Kee from the other joints is the liberal sprinkling of shrimp roe on the noodles. And this is only one of the things which sets them apart from the other run-in-the-mill shops.