Patisserie Paris Mikki Asok @ Bangkok
Whenever we are on holidays, we make it a point to visit some of the local pastry joints to have a feel of what the local pastry scene is like and our recent trip to Bangkok is no different. Our last trip to the capital of the Land of Smiles was exactly two years back and boy have things changed. Much of the local dessert scene had been completed taken over by the makes of Japan and Korea with bingsus and kakigoris rapidly gaining popularity and finding themselves in perpetually every mall along the main shopping belt in Bangkok. Yet there are some who continued to stay true to their grounds and stuck to the traditions and basics, to which we are very glad for, and Patisserie Paris Mikki is one of those increasingly rare few.
Patisserie Paris Mikki (PM) opened two years ago, riding on the tail-end of a wave of excitement with the opening of “Let Them Eat Cake” in 2012. Alas the latter has since closed their dessert boutique at Siam Centre even before we could get around to sample and review it. PM is the brainchild of pastry chef Carol Boosaba, a grad from UC Irvine in Psychology who was later trained in LCB and honed her skills at Laduree and Angelina where she apprenticed for almost a decade in France before heading back to the Thai capital to open her own dessert atelier. Prima facie as we stepped into her patisserie tucked in one of the sols next to Terminal 21 at Asoke, her creations looked very pleasing, and refined. Very clean and neat execution which one would expect of fine pastry making and I must say I am pleasantly surprised by the wide selection available using a good range of ingredients, not to mention a good display of techniques, from mousse to cream to chocolate to choux, puff pastry and even croissants which she had purportedly won an award for not long after she opened. Impressive I must say.
From the dozen or so pieces available that day we selected four which ranged across different components of French pastry making which we were looking at sampling…
Orangette (THB 195) – mousse au chocolat petit gateau with a coeur l’orange fraiches resting on a sable au chocolat et noisette. The chocolate mousse was delightfully light while the element of surprise came from the fresh orange pulp embedded in the centre of the piece instead of the conventional gelee or contrasting orange mousse even. Lots of textural as well as flavour contrast which we enjoyed. The chocolate cookie base was still wonderfully crisp, aromatic from the rich and nutty components of butter and hazelnut.
Lady Pinske (THB 195) – mousse au litchi with a gelee au framboise et litchi, biscuit joconde on a base of pate sucree d’ amandes. Yet another beautifully done piece, looking and smelling very much like PH’s Ispahan actually. I love the aroma and lightness of the lychee mousse dome and the jelly-like core made from raspberry sauce set with bits of chopped lychee that provided quite a bit of dramatic contrast. Like Orangette, the choice of the shortcrust pastry base was well done which not only provided structural support but also depth to the piece in textural and flavour contrast. On the whole, I like how it is light on the palate yet able to create a strong impression on its palate profile at the same time.
St. Honore “Traditional” (THB 290) – pate a choux, creme chantilly, creme patissier, gelee au caramel, pate feuilletee. A French classic which needs no introduction, PM’s St. Honore was elegantly crafted with beautifully piped swirls of whipped cream over glossy amber stained choux balls filled with pastry cream. In the middle of the piece is a gelatinous piece of caramel. “Properly made” we thought and quite enjoyable on its own though we felt lesser so for us compared to the earlier two pieces. It is a good rendition of what a classic St. Honore would be like though THE best one we’d had so far was still Pierre Herme’s caramel version, or for something more sensual, Laduree’s rose and raspberry version.
Philip 70 (THB 195) – mousse au chocolate noir, gateau moelleux chocolat, praline feuilletine, glacage miroir chocolat, macaron au chocolat... We saved what we thought would be the best for last and boy were our instincts right. PM’s signature chocolate cake “Philip 70” was essentially a 70% dark chocolate mousse layered with soft chocolate sponge and praline feuilletine at the base for good textural contrast. Praline feuilletine is basically pailleté feuilletine (feuilletine flakes) mixed with roasted and chopped hazelnuts amalgamated together with melted dark chocolate. It has all the makings of a good chocolate cake, reminds of PH’s classic Plasir Sucre minus the palette chocolat i.e. tempered chocolate sheets and of course much darker as we like it. The entire piece is robed with a ganache mirror glaze, embellished with a mini chocolate macaron and then speckled with gold dust for dramatic effect. Otherwise, it is really a “no frills” good o’ fashion French chocolate mousse cake which we enjoyed through and through. Definitely a must-order for anyone visiting Paris Mikki…
If you are looking for a nice place with good cakes and lovely french salon de the kinda ambience for tea, chit chat or just a place to rest your legs and mind for a while after all that shopping, Paris Mikki is definitely high on my recommendation list to visit if you are around the Sukhumvit area (Asoke, Thong Lo, Nana). It is located along sol 19 on the left of Terminal 21 just a short walk from the main street where BTS Asok is. Otherwise, one can get here by metro too, nearest to Sukhumvit station. If you are nearer to Siam Square-Central World area, their new outlet on the highest floor of Central Embassy would be a better place to go, especially on a Monday when this Asok outlet would be closed. There is limited seating indoors but one can always opt for al fresco dining on a fair weather day just outside the dessert boutique.
Patisserie Paris Mikki @ Asok
27 Metha Wattana Sukhumbit Soi 19
Nearest BTS Asok or Metro Sukhumvit
Sat and Sun 9 am to 10 pm, Tues to Fri 10 am to 10 pm, Closed on Mondays
More information on their Facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/ParisMikki/