Celebrating Food! Celebrating Life!

烏來温泉鄉 Wulai Hot Springs, Taipei County

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Our last trip to Wulai was some years back and it was a very brief one, to admire the sakuras. Alas we were a little too late then and the season was just over. We’d spent a considerably amount of time in 雲仙樂園, a local amusement park with a gondola that leads into the mountains and didn’t get much of a chance to see much of the old and rustic side of this beautiful small town 40 minutes south of Taipei City. So here we are, back again after all these years to find out more about this quaint little place which we passed through, but never got to know…

最后一次到烏來玩已经是好几年前的事了。当时为了追樱花而来到烏來山上。但还是来迟了,花季刚刚结束,所以最终没能追成。临时决定到附近的雲仙樂園玩,反而没有体验到真正的烏來。再次来到台湾,一定不能错过逛烏來老街, 享受它“温泉鄉”美誉的机会。

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Wulai is well known for their hot springs and we didn’t waste the opportunity to experience it for ourselves. We booked for ourselves a package at Volando, one of the very many hot springs resort in the area.

启程前在网路上订了Volando温泉会馆的汤屋。。。小小期待,果然不负所望。
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A celadon-toned landscape, characteristic of Karst topography which gives rise to the calcium carbonate-enriched hot springs in Wulai.

烏來温泉是标准的碳酸泉。同阳明山,北投一带的硫酸泉不太一样。而因为是碳酸泉, 所以烏來一带也有典型卡兹特地貌,当然也包括了青瓷般粉绿色温润的水文特质。
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A private bathhouse, with a full panel window offering panorama view of the  scenery around, but within the comforts of your own private space.

清幽的环境,为了让人们有更舒适的泡汤体验。少了都市里的纷纷扰扰, 换来的是大自然中的虫鸣鸟叫声,万籁俱寂。。。就连树叶随风摆动也充满着禅意。几乎整片的落地窗,屋 外的山水景色一览无遗。玻璃窗用的是反光镜面, 从外头是透不进来的, 不怕被偷窥。如果还是不放心 大可落下纱帘,享有更大的隐私空间。但我们没有。如此天人合一的机会,不可多得啊。 呵呵。
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Back to the basics with the choice of materials in cypress and granite. Simple, harmonious, elegant.

简单的设计,用的是台湾的杉木和花岗岩,典雅, 朴实。
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After soaking for 2 hours, we were off for visit 烏來老街

泡了两小时后,到老街上逛一逛吧!
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There is only one bus service that plys between Wulai and 新店 Xindian. And it is always packed. Thankfully, Volando has their own shuttle service which chauffeured us between the hot spring resort and Xindian.

来往乌来鄉和新店客运转换站的唯一一条公车服务。
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Street view of Wulai on a weekday afternoon, sparsely dotted with visitors both locally and abroad. The people of Wulai is almost solely dependent on hot spring tourism and related trade and business.

周日下午的老街, 少了周末人潮的熙熙攘攘, 逛起来也格外的写意。
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For those who only hope for a mere “brief” enounter with the hot springs, there is a feet soaking trench just outside the Wulai Tourist Information Centre located near the beginning of “Wulai Old Street”.

乌来游客中心外头也有可以泡脚的池子, 让没能享受温泉配套的旅客们也能体验一下乌来碳酸钙温泉水”美人汤” 的滋润。
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Good to come here for a soak after walking through the old street to help ease any fatigue…

走累了来泡泡脚,舒缓舒缓一下吧。休息是为了走更远的路。
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Cute balloon art outside the tourism centre to remind us that we are in the land of the 泰雅族 Atayal people, one of the many aboriginal tribes in Taiwan.

乌来游客中心外头的气球艺术, 穿着传统泰雅族服饰造型的气球公仔。

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Walking down the old street, we were overwhelmed by the stallls selling local produce and delicacies. Century eggs touted to be made with hot spring water from the region…

温泉皮蛋, 8个100台币不算贵。本想到回来时买回去试试但最后还是忘了。残念。。。
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Gigantic pink guava, eaten with skin…

粉心 芭樂, 看起来好诱人。。。
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An Atayal grandmother sorting out spring onions she grew herself…

泰雅族的一位“阿嫲”在整理自家种的珠葱。但我个人还是比较喜欢宜兰的三星葱。“湃谢”啦, 阿嫲。。。
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Young shoots of wild fiddlehead fern available for stir-fry dishes. Known locally as 過貓, they are probably mo.re familiar to us in this region as “pucuk paku”.

一种称作“過貓”的野生蕨类。。。
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Young fronds of bird nest fern, locally known as 山蘇, typically stir fried with small anchovies as well as chili.

山蘇,也就是 我们所熟悉的“鸟巢蕨”的嫩芽。之前在阳明山上吃野菜是尝过, 在高雄旗津渔港哪儿的小吃部也点过。就同小鱼干一起快炒。有一定的脆度。还挺好吃的。
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Deep-fried freshwater shrimp as a walkalong snack…

酥炸溪虾,买一包当作是爆米花来边走边吃。。。
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米血糕 is a popular snack in Taiwan. It is essentially glutinous rice cooked with the duck’s blood before being compressed into oblongish blocks. A variation of this local delight would be 猪血糕, as the name implies is made with pig’s blood instead. For this particular stall, they have made it extra special by including 马告, a local species of wild pepper for that interesting spicy hue. 

马绍应该是这位摊贩大哥的名字吧。售卖的是米血糕, 还堪称是“乌来第一家”。乌来老街上卖米血糕的果真是只有他们这一家。但比较特别的是他们家的米血糕里还加了乌来的另一项特产 “马告”山胡椒。

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A very enthusiastic hawker demonstrating to us how the various condiments and seasoning sauces are layered over each other…

摊贩大哥坚持为我们示范米血糕的制作过程, 真是盛情难却。托纸底部先铺上一层厚厚的花生末,再来就是米血糕。之后再淋上特别调配的“秘汁”,加上香菜, 酸菜, 最后再撒上一层花生末就大功告成了!
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The 米血糕 on its own tastes quite bland. relying almost entirely on the work of other condiments like pickled vegetables, ground peanut and cilantro to flavour it amply, not forgetting a “secret sauce” concocted by the hawker himself. It is quite enjoyable as a snack for those who are keen to try some local fare. Portion of 4 big chunks, best to be shared amongst two people…

米血糕本身没什么特别的味道。全靠的是上面所裹着的厚厚那层花生和香菜来提香,涂抹的酱汁和马告的微辛来刺激味觉上的享受。 还不错吃。建议大家来试试。但一大块的米血糕才要NT35, 所以建议和同行的伙伴share share。两人共享一份应该就ok了。要为后面的美食留位子。。。
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Another local snack which is almost synonymous with Wulai is Taiwanese sausages made from wild boar meat. And this particular stall at one end of the old street is particularly famous for some reason and attracted the longest queue. When in doubt, follow the crowd so we just queued on. Thankfully it was a rather quiet weekday afternoon and didn’t have to wait for long before we get to try the “famous delicacy” of this area.

乌来老街上, 摆卖烤香肠的摊贩不尽其数, 但唯独在巷子尾的”雅各道地原住民山猪肉香肠”摊子的人龙最为壮观。招牌上 打着“不一样就是不一样”的字句口气似乎不小。 那我们就来尝尝他们家的到底有什么不一样。
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Freshly cured sausages ready to be grilled… A rather high proportion of fatty meat, evident from the bits of white that peek through the casing…

烤网上一摊就是三十余条硕大肥厚的山猪香肠。白里透红看来想必又是一番肥滋滋。。。
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Snipping away the charred bits for a more pleasurable palate experience. Its probably paying attention to details like this that makes this stall stand out among the rest.

慢慢地剪掉香肠上烤焦的部分,充分地体现了摊贩们的细心和为,最高的食物品质,最好的味视觉享受把关的坚持。


And finally we got to enjoy ours. NT 35 for one and 3 for NT 105. We decided to just get one each for ourselves as “savings” of NT5 doesn’t really amount to much. Saving our stomachs for more delicious food to come as well! The sausages were grilled to perfection, save for a few bits of charring, which were probably left on deliberately for that extra smokey aroma. Despite being “touted” as wild boar meat, the sausages weren’t particularly gamey. But it was definitely a tad more fibrous, rendering the sausages chewier with more bite, compared to the regular Taiwanese sausages we are accustomed to eating. The “special sauce” which was brushed onto the sausages was absolutely wicked…a definite must try for those visiting Wulai.

山猪肉香肠肥而不腻, 配上独门调制的特别酱料。只能说“赞”了, 还是“赞”!
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Another shop selling fried bee hoon…

婆媳之间的眉眉角角就在那一丝丝的米粉之间。

Mochi made from millet in place of the glutinous rice we are used to seeing… must try!

小米制作出来的麻糬, 乌来泰雅族人的传统小吃。
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We opt for the honey coated one, using Taiwanese wild honey supposedly. Texture wise, it is far more chewy than the glutinous rice variety, with a slight hint of aroma from millet. The honey was very very sweet!

小米麻糬比平时所品尝到的糯米麻糬来的有韧性,更加的Q, 更有嚼劲。吃惯了花莲当地特产,那种软嫩,带有绵密口感的麻糬可能对小米麻糬会有些不太习惯。就当作是品尝当地美食, 体验当地特有文化来看好了!
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Glutinous rice dumplings cooked in brown sugar with osmanthus flowers…

桂花黑糖汤圆。。。来一碗来暖暖胃。

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温泉水煮蛋。。。hard boiled eggs cooked with the hot spring water from Wulai.
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Bamboo rice, another delicacy from the locals. 泰雅族人的传统竹筒饭, 另一道当地的传统美食。
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这位在卖玉米的“阿桑”听到我想帮她拍一张照, 笑得合不拢嘴。。。乌来人真的是非常的热情!
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回程带的一些“纪念品”。。。当然也要有一些实用性。丝瓜不但能拿来吃, 太老的丝瓜晒成络还能用来洗刷身体。果然是物尽其用。
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浮石用来去角质, 还相当好用!小小纪念品, 一点也不贵。

大家有机会到台北玩,不妨考虑到乌来泡泡美人汤,品尝一下当地的美食,体验一下泰雅族的当地文化!相信也会同我们一样有不少的收获!

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One response

  1. 鲸鱼蓝蓝蓝

    乌来很棒,我也很喜欢那里的人文风情
    一整个就很悠闲:)

    May 16, 2013 at 2:07 pm

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